Bezel
A bezel is the metal or ceramic ring around the watch face — rotating or fixed — used for diving time (Submariner), dual timezone (Pepsi/Batman GMT), or tachymeter (Daytona). A chipped or peeling bezel discounts 8–12%; an original period-correct bezel on vintage adds 15–25% premium.
Bezel types
Diving / unidirectional rotating
Rotates one direction only (counter-clockwise) for measuring dive time. Used in Submariner, Sea-Dweller, Seamaster 300M.
- Marked 0, 15, 30, 45 minutes + 5-minute marks
- Bezel "click" must be crisp and tight
GMT bidirectional
Rotates both ways, 24-hour markings. Used in GMT-Master II.
- Pepsi: red/blue (day/night)
- Batman: black/blue
- Root Beer: black/brown
Tachymeter
Fixed bezel with speed markings. Used in Daytona, Speedmaster.
- Markings 60 to 500 or 1000
- Speed-per-hour reading via 1km time
Fixed smooth
Plain bezel — used in standard Datejust, Day-Date.
Fluted
Grooved bezel — Rolex signature, used in Datejust, Day-Date.
- Gold Day-Date: always fluted
- Datejust: fluted or smooth options
Bidirectional pilot
Rotating bezel for pilots — used in Air-King, Sky-Dweller (Ring Command).
Bezel materials
Cerachrom (Rolex)
Patented ceramic since 2005 — scratch- and UV-proof.
- Used in Submariner 116610+, GMT 126710+, Daytona 116500+, Sea-Dweller 126600
- Doesn't fade — unlike aluminium
Aluminium insert
Used in pre-2010 Submariner and vintage Speedmaster.
- Fades with time — patina that collectors treasure
- Period-correct insert is premium
Sapphire bezel
Coated and printed sapphire — used in Royal Oak Offshore, Big Bang.
Solid steel / gold / platinum
No insert — used in fluted Datejust, Day-Date.
Resale impact
Chipped / cracked bezel
- Aluminium insert chip: -8 to -12% (replaceable)
- Cerachrom chip: -12 to -18% (requires full Service)
- Sapphire crack: -6 to -10%
Period-incorrect insert
- Wrong-year insert (Pepsi → Coke without matching year): -15 to -25%
- Aftermarket bezel: -8 to -14%
Period-correct vintage original
- Premium +15–25% on 30+ year watches
- "Faded patina" on older Pepsi/Coke: +10–20%
"TH" stamp (Rolex Thailand)
Bezel of Rolex with "TH" engraved on insert (2020+ via Riviera Group) signals official import — small positive for provenance.
Authentication checks
- Click action — diver bezel must click crisp and regular
- Lume pearl — Cerachrom bezel has luminous pearl at 12 — verify Chromalight UV
- Engraving depth — Cerachrom engraving must be deep and sharp
- Colour saturation — Cerachrom rich and uniform; doesn't fade quickly
Send bezel photos via LINE — we assess originality and damage.
Sources: Rolex Cerachrom technical specification · WatchCharts bezel condition impact data · Bonhams vintage bezel variants